Adansonia digitata(baobab)

Rarely grows to more than 15 m, with an average stem girth of about 2,5 m, but can sometimes reach 40m. Usually grows at altitudes below 1 000 m and must be protected from frost. Overwatering is bad; in any case water must be withheld from the end of April to the beginning of August. Seedlings have simple entire leaves and as the tree gets older they become three-foliate and five- and seven- foliate. Growth is slow and variable; of two trees planted in Messina, Northern Transvaal, one grew about six metres in seventeen years and the other nearly three metres in two years. A five metres in diameter tree proved to be 1 000 years old when radio-carbon dated. Seeds germinate easily, but growth is slow. Specimens can be obtained from nurseries in warmer areas. The baobab is strictly protected under the Forestry Act.  
The baobab develops a fleshy tap root fairly soon; this is the time to transplant it. I would not advise cutting the tap root - rather bend it over. If you do cut the tap root , do so early in the dormant season and allow the cut to dry out. Dust with sulphur or a fungicide to prevent infection developing and spreading up the root.

Acacia caffra:

All acacias are easy to grow and train. Watch for scale.

A. galpinii (Monkey thorn)
A. giraffae (Camel Thorn)
A. karroo (Soetdoring or sweet thorn)
A. nigrenscens (Knoppiesdoring or knob thorn)

Good in cold areas.

A. robusta (Enkel doring)

Its common name is a corruption of Engelsdoring - English thorn - which is a little derogatory meaning a thorn tree of inferior quality. Good in cold areas.

A. burkei (Black monkey thorn)

A. xanthophloea (Fever tree)

Believed to give one fever, has odd smell of fermenting potatoes! Cannot take frost.

A. sieberiana (Flatcrown
thorn)

A gem.

Acer Buergeranum (Trident or Chinese maple)

Also sold as A. trifidium. Great for bonsai. Excellent autumn colour. Must be grown in shade to prevent leaf burn. Very easy to train.

A. palmatum (Japanese
maple)

There are several varieties of this very desirable and very good tree for bonsai. Maples respond well to defoliating and are a must for bonsai. One tablespoon of vinegar to a litre of water once a month is very beneficial to maples, especially where the water is 'limey'

Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Pine)

The 'cartwheel' branches are a headache. Not really worthwhile.

Azalea

There are no constant differences between azaleas and rhododendrons. Azaleas are usually deciduous and have funnel form flowers, whereas rhododendrons are mostly evergreen and have campanulate, or bell-shaped flowers. But there are many exceptions to this generalisation; after all, there are over 800 different species, not counting all the hybrids. Azaleas will not thrive in clay and lime soils, but will grow very well in a mix of leaf mould, peat and sandy loam, with two parts of peat to one part each of the others. If leaf compost is difficult to get, well-made compost will do. Azaleas like cool, moist conditions. They should never be allowed to dry out; this most important in hot, dry areas with little humidity. They also need good light for flowering. There are many small- leafed varieties that are excellent for bonsai, especially the Kurume azaleas. Be very careful when wiring as the branches can be rather brittle; otherwise azaleas are fairly easy to style as bonsai. They also respond well to pruning.  Keep the soil acid by regular applications of azalea food, or iron chelates. If you use asbestos-cement containers, first line them with a sheet of plastic to keep the roots away from the lime. A must for your collection. Once established, azaleas will give you years of pleasure with their free flowering habits and graceful growth. Always do the trimming after the flowering season.

Betula pendula purpurea (Purple-leafed birch)

Has small leaves, trains easily and has a slightly 'weepy' branching habit.

Berberis thunbergii

Two varieties will make good Mame, one is 'Nana' and the other 'Rosy Morn'. Both are very prickly, with thin spines. Needs warm conditions.

Bougainvillea (Paper flower)

Many kinds to choose from. Select those with small or variegated leaves. Very colourful and easy to style and train. Needs protection from frost.

Bolusanthus speciosus (Wild wisteria)

There is only species of this handsome tree which can reach a height of five metres. Has compound leaves; flowers are wisteria- like. Will make an interestingg  bonsai if handled correctly.

Burkea africana (Wild
syringa)

An interesting subject for bonsai, but the leaves are a problem as they are long, drooping with long stalks with five to nine leaflets. But these can be trimmed back.

Bambusa (bamboo)

There are many bamboos with a variety of names. Must be re-potted every year or two. It is a challenge to get a good bamboo grove. Terminal shoots must be pulled out to control growth. *See special chapter.

Buddleja Saligna (White Olive or False Olive

One of the great trees for bonsai, very hardy and easy to train. Good for many styles. Big specimens respond well to cutting back.

Callistemon viminalis
(Weeping bottle brush)

Get a largish tree, and then cut back. Results will be quicker and better. Only use the weeping variety

Ceratonia siliqua (Carob
tree)

Unusual, tiny flowers, has compound leaves that need to be shortened. A good subject.

Cercis siliquastrum (Judas tree, red bud tree)

Has pretty flowers, is deciduous. Perhaps a little difficult as a bonsai, but worthwhile.

Crytomeria japonica
(Japanese cedar)

A very tall tree in nature. Much used by the Japanese for bonsai. Two vars that are good:  'Bandi Sugi' and 'Vilmoriniana' both have good tufted foliage. Both small trees. Could be classified as dwarfs.

Cedrus deodara
(Himalayan cedar)

Very good for bonsai. Easy to train, once established. Grows well.

C. atlantica (Atlantic cedar)
C. lebanii (Cedar of Lebanon)

Two gems! Generally very scarce at nurseries, but very easy to grow from cuttings. If you get the blue - foliaged variety, you are indeed lucky.

Celtis africana (Wit Stinkhout)
C. sinensis (Chinese hackberry)

Good drainage is needed. A very good, easy subject. Leaves reduce quickly.

Slightly larger leaves, not as popular as the wit stinkhout. Best to use an older specimen and cut back.

Chamaecyparis glauca
nana (cypress)
C. pisifera squarossa
(Sawara cypress)
C. boulevard (Blue cypress)
C. lawsoniana (Lawson's
cypress)

A huge family, all very good specimens for bonsai. They are easy to train and grow.

Coleoema album (Bokbaegoe)

Very small leaves, good for Mame and or miniature bonsai. Flowers well.

Cotoneaster dammeri
(Chinese cotoneaster)
C. cochleatus
(Himalayan cotoneaster)
C. thymifolia (Leaves like
thyme)
C. microphyllus
(Small - leaved)

These are perhaps the best of a large group. Snowy white flowers; masses of berries. Easy and good for all styles. Watch for aphids and scale. A must for bonsai.

Citrus calamondin
(kumquat)

Freely available, the small fruit is an advantage. Watch out for scale which will cause distortion of the leaves.

Cupressus macrocarpa
(Monterrey cypress)
C. arizonica (Arizona
cypress)
C. sempervivens
(Italian cypress)

These are the true cypresses to which the Chamaecyparis is closely related. The first two are better subjects. With the Italian cypress look for good lateral branching habits.

Carissa macrocarpa
(Natal plum)

Likes sandy soil. Very popular as a bonsai; trains well; interesting scented flowers with red fruit.

Duranta repens (Golden
dewdrop os Sky flower)

Needs a warm position to flower and berry as it is sub-tropical. Very beautiful, but a little difficult to style. Oftern sold as D. plumerii.

Diospyros whyteana
(Wild coffee)
(Part of the Ebony family)

There are twelve species in this family, all excellent subjects, but D.whyteana is special with its soft velvety leaves. Easy to style.

Dovyialis caffra (Kei
apple)

Another good subject for bonsai; takes heavy pruning; shifts well.

Eleagnus pungens aurea

Has golden leaves, but you must get an old specimen to succeed. Very hardy and easy to design.

Eugenia myrtifolia
 (Brush cherry)

A must for bonsai; smaller variety, 'globulus' is very good. Both are a bit slow to start, but make up for it with vigorous growth. The correct name is Syzygium paniculatum.

Erythrina principes
(Coral tree)
E. caffra
E. acanthacarpa

A very good, easy subject. Make use of the massive root system. Needs defoliating and regular leaf trimming to reduce the leaves. The best is E. acanthacarpa- if you can get it.

Euonymus japonica
(Spindle tree)

The wood is hard - used for making spindles - the branches are hard and difficult to train, but it is certainly worth the effort. Get the one with the golden leaves.

Ficus natalensis (Natal
wild fig)
F. sur (Cluster fig)
F. tettensis (Small leaf
rock fig)
F. thonningi (Common
wild fig)
F. Burrt-Davyi Nana
F. benjamina (Weeping
fig)

All are good as indoor bonsai. Some eight hundred species worldwide. Most make good bonsai with little effort. Most have striking root systems, so use for rock-clinging styles.
Keep away from heavy frost.

This Ficus comes from India and is also useful for bonsai.

Fuchsia (Ladies'
ear-drops)

Becoming popular as bonsai; use the small leafed varieties. Likes moist, cool conditions. Watch for mite in hot dry weather. Do not wire, rather use the Lingnan method; *see Chapter. F. Hemsleyana is a very good subject.

Fraxinus americana
(American ash)

The compound leaves are a bit too large, but it is always worth a try if you get one with good root age and trunk formation.

Galpinia transvaalica
(Pride of the Transvaal)

A beautiful tree with most lovely foliage. A gem, easy to train as a bonsai. Unfortunately seldom offered by nurseries.

Ginko biloba
(Maidenhair fern tree)

A beautiful tree leaves rather large. Slow growing. Should be trained in the Honen - flame- shaped style. Popular in Japan.

Gardenia thunbergia
(Wild gardenia)

I have seen some very good bonsai of this gardenia. They are fairly hard to train because of their branching habits.

Harpephyllum caffur
(Kafir plum)

Gets a very thick trunk in no time at all. Very interesting and easy to train and grow.

Hedera (Ivy)

Use old stock, or one dug out of the garden. Many excellent varieties with small and different coloured leaves. A good subject.

Ilex cornuta (Chinese
holly)

Get Ilex cornuta burfordii. Easy to style, with attractive leaves, and it berries in abundance.

Indigofera (Indigo)

There are two of these gems in our country: I. culindrica and I. frutescens. Do try and obtain them. Will do well as a Shohin, but will flower better as a bigger specimen. Trusses of flowers like small pink wisteria, in abundance. Very hard.

Jasminum (Jasmine)

All are good. Some have white flowers, others yellow; all are sweet-scented and make attractive bonsai, especially in the Han-kengai and Kengai (semi-cascade and full cascade) styles.

Juniperus chinensis
(Chinese juniper)
J. albo variegata
J. pfitzeriana glauca
J. pfitzeriana glauca
J. blaaw
J. procumbers
J. media
J. expansa varigata
J. virginiana

Junipers are tops. All are easy to style in all bonsai styles. They respond well, are tough and hardy, virtually indestructible. Very good for beginners. Watch out for red mite in hot dry weather. I have only mentioned my favourites.

Kunzea Baxteri (Scarlet
bush)

This small tree belongs to the myrtle family, has small leaves, is evergreen and branches well. Small scarlet 'brush' flowers. Easy to style.

Kirkia wilmsii
(Mountain springa,
Wild pepper tree)

Beautiful autumn colours, leaves feathery with pairs of opposite small leaflets with crenate margins. Roots can become tuber-like. A challenge.

Ligustrum obtusifolium
(Small-leafed privet)

Also sold as L. Ibota. Comes from Japan. Has small leaves, panicles of white flowers, followed by black berries. A must for bonsai, especially for the Pien-tshu style, and most others. Very tough.

Liquidambar stryaciflua
(Sweet gum)
L. formosana

Fantastic autumn colours. Needs defoliating and likes moist conditions.
Easy to design.

Lagerstroemia indica
(Pride of Italy)

Is often spoilt by mildew affecting both flowers and leaves. Only grow it if you are prepared to use fungicide, or if your area is free of mildew. In spite of this , a very good subject

Leptospermum hybrids
(Tea bush)

Almost impossible to transplant, will not tolerate root disturbance. It is best to start this beautiful plant very small, or as a cutting. Once established
in its container, forget about root pruning. Single and double flowers in many colours. Very good, but very, very difficult.

Morus (Mulberry)

Leaves reduce remarkably well. Exciting as a bonsai, will bear fruit quite young.
It is very easy to style and train.

Murraya paniculata
(Orange jasmine,
Satinwood)

A must for your collection. Flowers several times a year - orange-scented white flowers with red fruit. Evergreen. Sometimes sold as M. Exotica

Myrtus communis
(Myrtle)

Scented leaves. The white flowers are followed by black berries. Excellent for Mame bonsai. Very hard.

Michelia fuscata
(Magnolia)

Small glossy leaves, scented flowers, but a bit difficult to train. Get a good specimen to start with and you are halfway there. Some say the flowers arebstrawberry-scented, others say banana-scented. The correct name is M. figo.

Melia azedarach (Syringa
Bead tree)

Pretty hopeless as a bonsai, leaves are awkward. Yet I know of a few growers who do battle with this so-called syringa.

Nandina domestica
(Japanese sacred
bamboo)

It's not a bamboo. Cut it back to ground level if it grows too tall. Grown for the lovely foliage and autumn colours. My 30-year-old Nandina is less than 400mm high. The 'canes' are always slender. They say that if you tell the sacred bamboo your dreams, they will come true.

Olea europaea var.
africana (Wild olive)

One of the great trees for bonsai, very hardy and easy to train. Good for many styles. Big specimens respond well to cutting back.

Ochna pulchra
(Lekkerbreek)

Pulchra is Latin for 'beautiful', and so it is. Suprisingly few Ochnas are grown as bonsai. The leaves are small, the flowers and fruit are a striking black and scarlet. Alas, it's difficult! Seed must be very fresh, and it does not take kindly to transplanting, so be very careful. But it's worth it.

Osmanthus heterophyllus
(Holly olive)

Looks like holly, has sweet-scented flowers. Very hardy, with glossy leaves.
Certainly worthwhile.

Parthenocissus
tricupidata (Japanese
ivy)

What a plant! Has the most glorious autumn colours. Grow one in a tub until a good trunk has developed. Transplant when dormant. Well worth the trouble.
Related to virginia creeper.

Prunus (Flowering plum)

Another large family. Choose those that have small leaves. The best is P. cerasifera var 'hessei'. Have small white flowers in masses, with curiously shaped and coloured leaves. Very Japanese in mood.

Punica granatum
(Pomegranate)

There must be one or two in every collection. Likes a warm position. Watch for aphids in hot weather. Pomegranates are easy to grow from truncheon, that is, thick cuttings. This is in fact the best way to get good bonsai from pomegranates. The dwarf variety 'Nana' is not a strong plant in its early stages Always get a well established one, or better still obtain one of the varieties that grow a little taller.

Pyracantha coccinea
(Firethorn)

All the species are good. Of the hybrids, 'Orange Charmer' is very good. All flower and have masses of berries.

Pieris japonica (Lily of
the valley bush)

Do try to obtain one. Comes from Japan, has racemes of tiny white flowers. The variegated form is very good. If you can get it the cultivar 'bonsai' is tops, as it has compact foliage. Transplants well.

Parahebe lyalii
(Hebe, Veronia)

Good for miniature bonsai. Fairly hardy, with attractive foliage and white flowers.

Pinus halepensis
(Aleppo pine)

P. sylvestris (Scot's pine)

A good subject for bonsai, easy to style and train. Make a point of pulling off the adult needles. Only juvenile needles should be kept. An easy operation and worth the effort.
One of the best and a must for your collection. Can be used for many styles.
Very hardy and responds well to VIP treatment.

P. roxburghii (Chir pine)

Himalayan, with interesting bark formation.

Popocarpus (Yellowwood

A bit difficult. Look for one with small leaves; this is from seed variation.  Best grown as a formal tree. 'Bird's Tongue’ is the apt name given it by Chinese growers if they get one with narrow short leaves.

Quercus canariensis
(Algarian oak)
Q. cerris (Turkey oak)
Q. Suber (Cork oak)

The first two are far better to bonsai than the English oak Q. robur, which seems to be plagued with mildew. The bark is attractive. They are very resistant to mildew. When using oaks do try and get them when they are at least five years old.

Rosmarinus officinalis
(Rosemary)

Makes a good miniature, gets an aged look quickly. Flowers well-scented.

Rhus lancea (Kareeboom)

There are about 66 different species of Rhus in this country. It belongs to the Mango family. 'Karee' is derived from 'Karoo'. Start with older stock to achieve good bonsai.

Raphiolepis indica
(Indian hawthorn)

Can be good, but you must start wih an old tree. Attractive and no trouble at all as a bonsai. There is a new cultivar, 'Kruschen', which would be worthwhile, and has superior flowers.

Schotia brachypetala
(Huilboerboonboom)

Another must. Can make a fine bonsai. Has good roots;  the leaves are large but reduce readily. Likes water.

Salix babylonica
(Weeping willow)

Needs plenty of water. Tree and container should be placed in another very shallow container with water. Needs severe root pruning every winter as it is a gross feeder, so fertilize regularly. New shoots tend to grow upwards. These need wiring, or better still the young branches can be 'hand trained' by bending them downwards every time you are near the tree. It does not take long for the branches to stay down. You can actually tear or make a shallow incision as the base of the branch, which speeds up the process. This technique is useful in training all bonsai.

Serissa foetida
(Chinese june snow)

There are two forms, of which one is variegated. Very good as Mame or Shonin bonsai. Flowers are white and abundant.

Sophora japonica
(Pagoda tree)
S. tetraptera
S. davidii

S. japonica has compound leaves which will need trimming, but S. davidii and S. tetraptera have very small leaves and are better subjects. Very rewarding and flowers well.

Schinus terebinthifolius
(Brazilian pepper)

Can be very good if grown as a large specimen. Hardy and easy to style.

Spirostachys africana
(Tambotie)

Another gem that should be used much more for bonsai. The leaves turn a beautiful red in autumn. But, again, try to obtain fairly large specimens. Be careful of the latex. The tambotie will enhance your collection. Shift in winter.

Tipuana tipu (Tipuana)

A waste of time and effort.

Tamatrix pentandra rubra
(Red tamarisk, Salt cedar)

Tamarisk makes very good bonsai. Train in the weeping or Shidare-zukuri style. If well done can create a strong Eastern mood. The correct name is
 T. ramosissima

Taxodium distichum
(Swamp cypress)

You must have one. Easy to train and really lovely. Good idea is grow in a container without holes and to create a little pool on one side. Keep filled with water. An absolute delight when the new leaves break after winter.

Tecomaria capensis
(Cape honeysuckle)

Flowers well, easy to train, very hardy. Makes a fine bonsai with little effort.

Thuja occidentalis
(White cedar)

Rheingold' and 'Ellwangeriana' are two good varieties among many. A bit slow but worth it. Thujas turn russet brown in winter. As the weather warms they turn green, then a lovely golden colour. They like a sunny position, otherwise they will stay green.

Ulmus parvifolia
(Chinese elm)

U. sempervirens var
Hiroma (Evergreen elm)

Possibly the best of all trees for bonsai. Leaves reduce well. This tree has a charm all of its own. Can be used for just about every style.

This is a variety of U. parvifolia. It is half-hardy, and will drop leaves in very cold or frosty weather. It comes into leaf very quickly. The young leaves have a charming reddish tint, and are smaller. It is a very desirable subject.

Weigelia florida aurea

There are many varieties of Weigelia. Flowers well as a bonsai, but should only be trimmed after flowering.

Wisteria (Blue rain)

Although wisteria has a short flowering season, it is a plant of grace and great beauty and the heavy bunches of flowers is a sight to behold. Sometimes is rather shy of flowering. Wisterias like a lot of water; this is the secret of getting them to flower. Place the wisteria, container and all, in another container with water and leave it there throughout the growing season. It must be removed when the leaves fall for winter. All long shoots and tendrils must be cut off at an early stage. Most important, if you take cuttings, see that they are from flowering wood.

Zelkova serrata
(Saw leaf elm)

This is Japanese and is related to the elm. Grown mostly for viewing in winter, when the beautiful bare branches can be admired. The intricate branch formation is achieved by constant pruning. Should be grown in the broom or Hokidachi style.