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3 Gerrit Maritz Ave
Monument Krugersdorp
Gauteng
GPS : S 26◦ 06.398 E027◦ 48.017
011 954 1407 / 083 393 0188 |
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| Bonsai, Formal upright or straight trunk style - Chokkan |
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Guidelines on creating an informal upright style Moyo – Gi |
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Roots
Surface roots should spread evenly around the trunk with the strongest roots to the sides. Make sure that no major roots grown towards the viewer. |
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The length of the lateral roots is approximately two to three times the trunk’s diameter. |
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Spread the roots horizontally and not vertically, because the latter arrangement not only looks unnatural but also lacks stability. |
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Trunk Line
To display the movement of the trunk, choose the side that shows off the trunk movement at its best. The trunk movement at its best. The trunk line may curve either sharply or gently. |
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The trunk tapers from the base to the apex. Avoid tree-trunks that do not taper, or that taper from the apex to the base. |
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The trunk slopes upwards from the base to the first branch. Thereafter the distance decrease between the bends in the trunk. |
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When viewed from the front, the major bends should be on both the left and the right sides of the trunk. In order words, the trunk must not bend forwards or backwards, otherwise the bends will not be visible to the viewer. |
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The apex leans slightly towards the viewer at an angel of approximately five degrees. This bowing position is not a humble adoration of its creator, but rather to enhance the optical illusion of a large tree looking down onto you. |
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The trunk should not grow vertically upwards, but it should rather slant slightly to the right or left. |
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Terminal line
The terminal line tends towards the vertical from the apex to the base. Do not apply this rule too strictly, as the terminal line could lean a few degrees to either side. Normally the upper trunk should not slope more than fifteen degrees, otherwise the style could be classified as a slanting style. |
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The distance between curves in the trunk becomes progressively shorter towards the apex. For instance, if the distance between the root base and the first curve were approximately sixteen cm, the distance between the following curves would decrease progressively in the following order; eight, four two and one. Regard dimensions as a guideline only. |
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Branch placement
Main branches must grow from the outside of the curves but make sure that no heavy branches point directly towards the viewer. Use the traditional staircase branch placement, i.e. left, back right and front, towards the top of the tree. No hard and fast rule applies. Just make sure that no branches are placed on top of each other. |
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Ensure that no branches grow from the inside of the curves, or on the straight portion between curves, as an unnatural and unattractive appearance will be the result. |
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The first branch (or the number one branch) is usually the strongest and longest, and should be positioned at approximately ⅓ to the ½ length of the trunk. Do not apply this rule too strictly, as branch placement is dependent on the plant material or the mood that the artist intends to capture. |
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Negative spaces between the branches could be filled quite easily by bending branches downwards. |
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Secondary branches
Top view
Secondary branches should follow the same movement as the primary branch.
Viewed from above, branches should form a zigzag pattern. Note that the secondary branches also grow from the outside of the curves. The silhouette line is pear-shaped or triangular, and the widest side is closer to the trunk. |
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Side View
Secondary branches slant at an angle of approximately 45°, and the taper towards the end of the branch. These branches normally provide the basis for twiggy growth and foliage.
The silhouette line tapers towards the tip, and has a triangular or round shape. |
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Secondary branches should not grow vertically up or down. The underside of the branch structure should be clear of branches. |
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Silhouette line
An overall triangular silhouette line is recommended for conifers, while a more rounded one is recommended for deciduous and old conifers. You should always see a triangle in your tree; this can be any type of triangular shape. |
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An asymmetrical silhouette line creates an illusion of movement and balance. |
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A symmetrical silhouette line lacks movement and appears static and uninteresting. |
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Containers.
Depth of the container.
The depth of the container is normally equal to the diameter, or even twice the diameter, of the trunk. However, in cold or very dry climates it is better to use deeper containers. South African indigenous trees thrive in deeper containers. |
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Length of the container.
The length of the container is approximately ⅔’s of the height or the width of the tree; whichever is the major dimension. |
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Tree placement in the container
Position the tree-trunk just off-centre and towards the back of the container. Make sure that the trunk leans towards the largest area of the container. |
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Positioning by visual weight.
To create an impression of movement, position the side of the tree with the greatest visual weight close to one side of the container, as eye movement will then normally flow towards the open side of the container. |
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Container colour
The colour of the container should contrast or harmonise with the colour of the foliage, flowers or berries. Therefore, plant evergreen trees in grey, grown or dark terracotta containers, and trees with yellow, orange, red or pink berries or flowers in light or dark blue or grey containers.
Container shape
Normally, equal-sided rectangular containers are used for evergreen trees, because the emphasis here is on the trunk movement. On the other hand, deciduous trees look best in oval containers, because of the natural movement of their trunks and branches. For instance use an oval container when the emphasis is on branch movement. |
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Creating a informal upright Bonsai style. |
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